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The good, the bad, and the ugly

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The good, the bad, and the ugly

The three of us sat down on a bench beside the trail. As we munched bread and cheeses, another solo traveler approached. He was a lean, muscley man with no shirt. His skin was tanned from the sun and covered in tattoos and maybe a few scars.

“Gooddaye,” he nodded. He had a Welsh accent.

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James goes West

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James goes West

We know that James was beheaded in Jerusalem (See Acts 12:1-2). It makes sense that he would have been buried in the place where he was killed. Who would go the trouble to move a dead body? Especially a messy one.

Ah, but this where it gets interesting.

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Old world tortillas

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Old world tortillas

Bob returned and plopped down on the bench. In his hands were two packages of aluminum foil.

“Check this out! His eyes were bright.

We unwrapped the silver treasures. They were warm and smelled wonderful.

“Tortilla de patatas,” Bob announced with flair.

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A visit to the hospital

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A visit to the hospital

The complex was built by the Knights Hospitallers. Even the place name was evocative. San Juan de Acre was the name given by Spanish-speaking Christians to coastal Acre, the last Crusader stronghold in the Holy Land.

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There's a Mike in Logroño

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There's a Mike in Logroño

Bob and I walked into Logroño, a bustling city on the banks of Río Ebro. Wheels screeched. Music blared. People hollered. Buildings of steel and glass rubbed against their stone counterparts. It was a mix of the modern and the medieval, a blend of Spain’s yesterday and today.

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What happened to James the Great

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The death of James the Great is described in the NT. Outside the NT, however, his story lives on. Part of that story is dedicated to an epic journey, and part of that story is dedicated to a post-death appearance. Both of these accounts teeter wildly into the area of myth but never say that to a Spaniard. It may cost you an eye.

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Sipping from fountains

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The water system in Spain is a matter of civic pride. Not only are the public fountains 99.5% safe,* they are also creative and ancient and available in most villages along the Camino Francés. They also address dehydration issues, which the Spanish understand better than most.

Ribbons of water and rock

Ribbons of water and rock

We crossed the Arga on the way out of Puente la Reina. It would be the last time.

I pulled down my sunglasses and hung over the stone rail. My glasses dangled from a string around my neck. The flow below, like us, had run off the Pyrénées. Unlike us, its journey would end in the Mediterranean.

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Forgiveness ridge

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We reached the summit of Alto del Perdón. It was a good moment to remember God's grace.

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Run Bull Run

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Bob and I arrived in Pamplona five days before the running of the bulls. We walked to the bullring. It was, in truth, a functioning Roman amphitheater.

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We found him in the Iruna

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He was leaning on the counter, not tight. One foot rested lightly on the rail. His face was lined; his hair was wavy and full. His face revealed neither surprise nor irritation by our sudden interruption; it was more like, "Oh, there you are. I knew you'd come."

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Pompey-city

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More than a decade before the hobnailed boots of Pompey the Great scraped the pavers of the Jerusalem Temple,* the Roman commander was out West. On the Iberian Peninsula, he pursued a campaign against the guerrillas of Quintus Sertorius. This pursuit kept Pompey busy for five years, from 76 to 71 BC. In that half-decade, Pompey developed his military chops, demonstrated a reputation for brutality, and earned a Roman triumph. The experience would serve him well.