One full bus, many full hearts

The challenge of moving 48 people through the land of the Bible is felt most acutely in Jerusalem’s Old City. Here, the rhythm of life lived within these walls collides with the press of new arrivals. Together, residents and pilgrims rush, gawk, worship, shop and gossip. The result can be chaotic, or at least have that appearance for first-timers. There is no tutorial for this school; one must simply dive in. 

Stacks of chewy bread-loops, known as ka’ak, are sold on the street. These loops are sold with a twist of za’atar (dried thyme), salt, and sometimes a boiled egg. It is a fast-food breakfast, Jerusalem’s equivalent of an Egg McMuffin.

Stacks of chewy bread-loops, known as ka’ak, are sold on the street. These loops are sold with a twist of za’atar (dried thyme), salt, and sometimes a boiled egg. It is a fast-food breakfast, Jerusalem’s equivalent of an Egg McMuffin.

Our recent study-tour crew did just that. The group was formed from two worshipping communities in the United States: First Christian in Springfield, Ohio, and Fern Creek Christian in Louisville, Kentucky. The common denominator was Craig Grammer, a dedicated pastor who has worked with both of these communities. And while there is no tutorial for Jerusalem’s busy streets, expectations can be set and vision can be cast. Craig did both admirably, beginning many months in advance of travel. When the crew did arrive in Tel Aviv for a 10-day educational experience, they were ready to swim.

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My role was less lofty and more logistic: keep everyone together, alive, comfortable and informed. Toward this end, I had two assistants and a safety net.

My first assistant was Khalil, our bus driver. He did a superb job of not just navigating the narrow streets of the country, but helping to coordinate meetings and meals. I cannot say enough good things about Khalil. He kept us safe and on time.

Khalil was one of the finest drivers I’ve ever worked with. Good man! Along with Khalil, our group had the unflinching support of the Jerusalem Center (JCBS) and George Garabedian Tourist Transport (GGC).

Khalil was one of the finest drivers I’ve ever worked with. Good man! Along with Khalil, our group had the unflinching support of the Jerusalem Center (JCBS) and George Garabedian Tourist Transport (GGC).

My second assistant was Vicki. My wife rarely comes on these trips anymore (someone in this family has to work a real job!), but came to help given the scale of this crew. I was blessed that she did. Her assistance with the whisper-system (transmitters and receivers) that everyone carried facilitated communication. She also helped with paperwork details and the distribution of joy and grace. Thank you, Vicki!

Vicki in the dining room of the Caesar Hotel in Tiberias. There are many challenges when you travel with us, but starving to death is not one of them!

Vicki in the dining room of the Caesar Hotel in Tiberias. There are many challenges when you travel with us, but starving to death is not one of them!

The safety net behind our group was once again the George Garabedian Company (GGC) working together with the Jerusalem Center for Biblical Studies (JCBS).

GGC is a stable presence in the Lands of the Bible, delivering tourist transport and services for more than 85 years. Their family-style approach to doing business makes doing business easier.

JCBS handled logistics and flights stateside. They operate under the umbrella of Educational Opportunities (EO), the largest-by-volume provider of Holy Land trips in North America.

Knowing these giants were at work behind us made my job easier.

Baptism in the Jordan River (Qasr el-Yahud). Photograph by Pat Blandford.

Baptism in the Jordan River (Qasr el-Yahud). Photograph by Pat Blandford.

The itinerary called for overnights in Bethlehem, the Dead Sea, Jerusalem, Tiberias, and Netanya. Touring was completed in all these areas and included sites of cultural and religious significance. The group prayed in the Church of the Nativity, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, scrambled over ruin-mounds like Masada and Capernaum, and experienced the waters of the Jordan River and the Dead Sea.

One unique aspect of the program was a drive through central Palestine. Stops were made at Jacob’s well and Samaria. At the latter we rode camels and enjoyed a traditional Arab-style meal of maqlubeh. It was an experience off the beaten trail and one that prompted discussion of the Israel-Palestinian conflict and the role of Christian peacemakers.

Camel at the Roman forum of Samaria. Photograph by Steve Luckenbach.

Camel at the Roman forum of Samaria. Photograph by Steve Luckenbach.

While I was anxious about leading 48 people through the Heartland in the middle of the high travel season, in the end it was worry about nothing. Strong leadership, able assistants, a solid itinerary, and a gracious God made for more than a full bus, these produced full hearts.

The view from the summit of Mt Arbel is spectacular. The plain of Ginosar and the Sea of Galilee stretches beneath the feet of our pilgrim. Visible are the sites of Capernaum and Magdala. Photograph by Tom Lush.

The view from the summit of Mt Arbel is spectacular. The plain of Ginosar and the Sea of Galilee stretches beneath the feet of our pilgrim. Visible are the sites of Capernaum and Magdala. Photograph by Tom Lush.


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If you are a traveler, church leader, or educator who is interested in visiting Israel-Palestine (or Tanzania!), let me hear from you. I partner with faith-based groups to deliver outdoor academic experiences. Leaders receive the same perks that other agencies offer, at competitive prices and without the self-serving interests.

Right now we’re building the passenger roster for an Israel excursion scheduled for March 17-28, 2020. Seats will be open until Thanksgiving. For a list of trips go to the link here or contact me at markziese@gmail.com.