We stopped for breakfast in Navarrete.
The main square of the village rests in the shadow of the magnificent Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción (built between the 15th-18th c). I found a park bench to take it in while Bob went scavenging for food. I sat for a while, then filled my water bottles.
There was a fountain in the square. A decorated pillar rose from a cluster of basins. On several sides were gargoyles, mouths agape. Water trickled down from these and splashed into the basins. A bronze woman in traditional dress carried a full jar on her head. Nearby a bronze man threw a pot on a wheel. Both figures captured memories of daily life in the region of La Rioja. This was an artisan village with a proud history. It deserved more time than we had to give.
We had 18 miles to cover before the sun bronzed all living things. Fortunately, the sky was still overcast.
Life-sized bronzes decorate the Navarrete square (Plaza Mayor). “Monument to the potter” (left) and “Fountain with Water Woman” (right).
Bob returned and plopped down on the bench. In his hands were two packages of aluminum foil.
“Check this out! His eyes were bright.
We unwrapped the silver treasures. They were warm and smelled wonderful.
Inside was a yellow cake with two pieces of crusty bread.
“Tortilla de patatas,” Bob announced with flair.
It was unlike any tortilla I’d ever seen. I associated the term with corn or flour flatbreads. On that day I discovered that the root-word torta translates simply into “little round cake.” Roundness, seemingly, is the only thing that these Old World tortillas have in common with their New World counterparts.
“It has eggs and potatoes and onions.”
Bob and his discovery.
I later learned that tortilla de patatas is a traditional tapa in Spain. In other places, it might be called a frittata or a handy (ha!) portable omelet. Some say the recipe was brought to Spain by prisoners captured in the Portuguese Restoration War of 1665. Others claim the Spanish tortilla was born when a famous general made a surprise visit to the home of a poor Navarre housewife in the 1830s. She threw together all that she had and tortilla de patatas was born.*
Whatever. The one thing we do know is that it is not more than 500 years old since the main ingredient is potatoes, and potatoes are a New World crop.
We tied into ‘em and ‘em was good.**
The sleepy village was quiet, save for the sound of our munching, the morning birds, and the water that gurgled from the gargoyles. The potter and the water-woman stood motionless.
We unwrapped our breakfast: tortilla de patatas!
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