We came across Dan on the side of the trail into Pamplona. He had a booth that catered to peregrinos. I spied some bananas among the foodstuffs and trinkets he had on display. I looked closer because it was midmorning and I was hungry.
The Pyrénées do not look imposing on a map. But don’t be fooled. This mountain chain between France and Spain is ancient, steep, and full of whispered stories.
