Swahili

View to Stone Town, Zanzibar

View through the parapets to Stone Stone, Zanzibar.

Stone Town is the beating heart of Unguja, the principal island of the Zanzibar archipelago. It is a maze of coral ragstone, crumbling cement, mangrove timbers, and corrugated steel. Some 16,000 people call it home, although many more live in the surrounding area on the island.

Structures are a mashup of Swahili, Indian, Arab, and European styles.

I shot this view from the roof of our lodging, the Swahili House, a 19th c Indian merchantmen’s home. Note the crenellated parapets lining the top of the wall. While they look like a defensive feature, they are actually designed to give a little privacy to residents who uses the flat roof as living space.

An uncomfortable arrival

An uncomfortable arrival

I hoped it was Arusha when we slipped in. It was hard to know in the dark. The tinting film stuck to the “taxi” windows, bubbled and peeling, made it even more disorienting. There were few working streetlights; those that did work revealed a shantytown in eerie hue. The driver, grimfaced under a stocking cap, looked straight ahead and never spoke a word. Vicki was unnerved.

The CIA

The CIA

Paul was stocky fellow, the veteran of many climb seasons. His feet were glued to a muddy floor. I knew immediately that I needed to befriend this man. 

PaperGate

PaperGate

I dangled out the bus window and sniffed the air. It was damp, earthy, and green. Inside the bus were nine other Kilimanjaro trekkers (also somewhat damp, earthy, and green!), four guides, a handful of porters, and many rucksacks.