Paris is smitten by the terrible beauty of Helen. Image from here: https://www.historytoday.com/miscellanies/helen-whore-and-curse-beauty (accessed 9/27/2022).
Homer’s Paris
Homer’s Paris is a contradictory character. The Illiad presents him as deeply flawed, hung somewhere between magnificence and a train-wreck. The man blamed for launching a thousand ships by kidnapping Helen is, at his core, feckless. His brother Hector even curses him for it:
“They thought you the bravest champion we could field.
and just because of the handsome luster on your limbs.
but you have no pith, no fighting strength inside you” (The Illiad 3.40-45).
The Big Bus
I pondered the difference between appearance and reality as I rode the hop-on hop-off bus in the city named after Homer’s character. The mist hung in Paris. For a moment it turned to rain and wet my skin. From our perch on the top deck of the Big Bus there was just enough windshield to keep us dry if the bus kept rolling. Vicki was well wrapped. Her hood was on her head; her umbrella was in her hand. It was her first time in Paris and we hoped that the Big Bus would give us a fair introduction. We dialed the headsets to 2: English. The narrative was witty and informative and timed to the pace of the bus.
Last time I was here, I was weathered and alone. I had just finished a Spanish Camino and was brittle brown from the Spanish sun. This time Vicki was with me. We we both soggy and jetlagged, but we were together and determined.
Visiting Notre-Dame de Paris: A Gothic Monument in Shadows
The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris was not as I remembered. Three years after the devastating fire that destroyed its oak trusses, the cathedral remained encased in a spiderweb of scaffolding. Despite the construction, it remains a must-see on any Paris sightseeing itinerary. Tourists stood outside the barricades, snapping selfies in the rain while the painstaking work of restoration continued behind them.
The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris was not as I remembered.
Place de la Concorde: The Luxor Obelisk and the Axe Historique
As we crossed the bottom of the Champs-Élysées, we reached the Place de la Concorde. From our perch, we had a full view of the Luxor Obelisk. Legend has it King Louis Philippe secured this ancient piece of granite from the Pasha in exchange for a French clock. I suppose the Pasha had obelisks to spare but simply didn’t have the time.
Of course, the square marks other notable losses—like Marie Antoinette’s head. I tried not to dwell on that, focusing instead on the glory of Ramses II (saving the rest of the Egyptian treasures for our upcoming Louvre day).
The Luxor Obilisk stands at the lower end of the Champs-Élysées.
A Pitstop for French Crêpes on the Champs-Élysées
The civic crews were hard at work at the Concorde, erecting a massive platform that obscured the famous axe historique—the grand line of sight stretching across Paris. With Emmanuel Macron in a bit of trouble lately, I joked about scheduled public executions, but we hopped off at the top of the Champs to hunt for something more palatable: French crêpes.
We squeezed into a sidewalk café for two. Vicki went for chocolate, I chose jam, and we both chased them with caffè americanos. At 30 Euros, it wasn't the most nutritious breakfast, but we savored every bite. After all, one doesn't dine on the Champs-Élysées every day.
View down the upper end of the Champs-Élysées.
Is the Eiffel Tower Big Bus Stop Worth It?
No Paris bus tour is complete without the Eiffel Tower. We hopped off at the Trocadéro just as the sun broke through the clouds.
We elbowed through the crowds for the obligatory photo op. Interestingly, you can’t easily see the three-meter-high bulletproof glass that now protects the Iron Lady from modern threats. It’s a necessary shield, though I suspect stepping on a stray metal souvenir tower in the dark is still more painful than a Lego landmine.
Final Thoughts: The Parisian Experience
Paris remains a city of surprises and deep contradictions. Whether you are a solo traveler or exploring as a couple, the Big Bus journey offers a high-level view of a city that is constantly rebuilding itself. For these two damp tourists, it was a very good time.
The obligatory shot with the Eiffel Tower in the background.
If the mystique of Turkey and Istanbul has captured your eye, you may want to consider joining us in October of 2023. Bible Land Explorers will be engaging the western end of the country with stops in Istanbul, Troy, Ephesus and many other sites. You will eat well, sleep well, and see well on this one. Guaranteed! Click here for details.